What is Khadi Fabric? History, Types, Benefits and Care Guide

Answering the question, what is khadi fabric? It feels simple at first glance - it is hand-spun and hand-woven cloth. 

But, in our context, khadi is not just cloth. Of course, the skill and labour of the artisan who makes it by hand are invaluable, but equally important is the weight of history and the emotion of heritage that khadi fabric carries for us. 

Questions like what is khadi fabric and what is the difference between khadi and cotton? are also common. While handwoven cotton may be often confused for khadi, all cotton is not khadi!

When you understand the history, the making process, and unique characteristics of the khadi fabric, you will not only know how it is different but also see how it can be a part of our daily lives. 

What is Khadi Fabric? 

Khadi is a fabric where the yarn is spun by hand using a charkha (the traditional spinning wheel), and the yarn is woven into cloth by hand.

If machines are used in either step, then the fabric is no longer khadi! So, the hand-spinning and hand-weaving parts of making khadi are the key to answering the question, "What is khadi fabric?"

The hand-spun yarn is not perfectly even. So, the khadi fabric will have a slightly textured surface and an uneven look even if it is soft to touch and feels airy.

Cotton is the most common base used for making khadi, but silk and wool can also be used to make the khadi fabric. 

Khadi Fabric History: From Charkha to Freedom Movement 

Making fabric by hand-spinning and hand-weaving has been a defining character of the Indian subcontinent’s textile story. We have examples like Dhaka's famously fine muslin from history that show how skilled our artisans were.

However, during the freedom movement in India, khadi became the representative of national pride and resolve.

Mahatma Gandhi promoted khadi as part of the swadeshi movement. He gave a call to the nation to use hand-spun and hand-woven cloth and discard the mill-made fabric imported by the colonial rulers.

The charkha used for spinning the yarn became a symbol of self-reliance and national resistance. Khadi still stands as a vessel of our national spirit, as the Flag Code of India stipulates that the national flag should be made with khadi fabric.

For most of us, khadi is a heritage, a symbol of our freedom, and also a part of our everyday wear. 

How is Khadi Fabric Made?

The answer to the question, "What is khadi fabric?" lies in its making process.

It's completely handmade at all stages - that’s what separates it from other fabrics that use modern production methods during production.

Step 1: Cleaning and Preparing the Fiber

The raw cotton naturally has impurities (like seeds, leaves, dirt, and natural debris). They are separated by hand using wooden combs. The cleaning process by hand keeps the natural strength and shape of the fibers intact.

Step 2: Carding

During carding, the raw cotton fibers are detangled and uncurled and then aligned into soft rolls called slivers (also known as punis.)

The artisans use traditional wooden tools to safeguard the smoothness and strength of the fiber during the process of carding.

Step 3: Spinning

A traditional charkha is used to extract yarn from the slivers. The artisans draw and twist the slivers to get the strong and fine yarn.

While many spindled wheels are available today, the traditional single wheels or charkhas are still used.

Step 4: Preparing the Warp and Weft

For weaving, the yarn should be prepared to withstand the tension of the loom.  Then it is time for sizing and winding.

• Sizing: The yarn is unwound and dipped in natural starches (to strengthen the threads).
• Winding: The yarn is measured and wound into bobbins and then arranged into warp frames.

Step 5: Weaving

The skilled artisan uses the foot pedals and hand shuttles on the loom to hand weave the khadi fabric. It’s hand weaving that introduces micro-pockets of air within the weave structure of the khadi fabric and gives it the breathability. 

Step 6: Finishing

• The raw woven khadi is known as khora. It is washed to strip away the residue of sizing starches and soften the fabric.
• Based on final design, the artisans may use plant-based or eco-friendly dyes to hand-dye the khora fabric.
• Traditional techniques (block printing, kalamkari, or tie-dye) are used to hand-print designs on the fabric. 

Types of Khadi Fabric 

When we look at what is khadi fabric - specifically what types of khadi fabric are available - we have 5 options.

1. Khadi Cotton

Khadi cotton is the most widely known and popular khadi fabric. Many times when people say 'khadi,' they mean ‘khadi cotton.' 

The slightly textured khadi cotton is a breathable fabric and softens with repeated wash. It is the most practical option for everyday wear in kurtas, shirts, dupattas, etc., to be used in the Indian weather. 

2. Khadi Silk

Khadi silk is a textured and matte khadi fabric. It also has a heavier drape than the khadi cotton fabric.

It is less glossy and more comfortable than the regular silk fabrics. So, khadi silk is suitable to be used in festive or wedding season outfits.

3. Khadi Wool

Woolen khadi feels warm and slightly coarse. It is mostly used in making sweaters and shawls used for managing North Indian winters.

4. Muslin Khadi

A finer cotton yarn is used to spin the finer and lightweight muslin khadi. It is a delicate and sheer fabric - so, you need to add a lining or use it as a layer on top of an opaque garment.

Muslin khadi is also a good choice for hot humid climates.

5. Poly-khadi (Poly Vastra)

Poly-khadi is a blend of khadi cotton and polyester fabric. It is cheaper and wrinkles less. 

Poly-khadi is practical. But it is not as breathable and comfortable to wear as other types of khadi fabric.

Benefits of Khadi Fabric

• One of the most important benefits of khadi fabric is that it is a cloth that breathes. The open weave of khadi fabric lets the air pass through, which helps in managing both dry humid summer climates. 
• Khadi is a fabric that is comfortable to wear across seasons. During summer, khadi cotton helps you stay cool. Thicker khadi fabrics or khadi wool are a great option for mild summers. 
• One of the underrated benefits of khadi fabric is that it softens with use. As the fabric is worn and washed over time, the initial stiffness gives way to softness without the fabric falling apart. 
• Khadi has a slightly structured and uneven surface that hides the small creases better than the soft cotton cloth. So, it is a forgiving fabric for daily situations like commutes and long workdays. 
• Khadi fabric has a bit of a structure and shape. It sits on the body without clinging and holds the shape. So, one of the key benefits of khadi fabric is that it suits many body types. 
• One of the crucial benefits of khadi fabric is that when you buy it, you are supporting the artisans. 

Khadi vs Cotton vs Linen vs Handloom 

Many times khadi fabric gets mixed up with cotton, linen, and handloom fabrics. 

For example, many people do not know that the difference between khadi and handloom is that, even if the handloom is woven by hand, the yarn could be mill-spun. 

Similarly, when we look at what is the difference between khadi and cotton, we find that cotton is mill-spun. In the case of linen, it's a separate fiber made from the flax plant.\

How to Identify Authentic Khadi Fabric 

Many people use the word "khadi fabric" very loosely, sometimes for handloom fabric or even for cotton fabric. So, it is necessary to know the simple tests that let you know and confirm what is khadi fabric?

Check for Natural Surface Irregularities and Slubs

As real khadi is produced by hand spinning, the small variations in yarn thickness, tiny slubs, and uneven patches are a feature - they are not defects. You can check for these imperfections by holding the cloth up against the light. 

If the surface looks even and smooth, it is most likely made in a machine or mill and not khadi fabric. 

Feel the Weave Structure and Air Permeability

Khadi feels dry and a little coarse to touch when it's new. Fine muslin or silk khadi will feel softer than the khadi cotton. 

You can check this by

• Rubbing the khadi fabric between your fingers.
• Hold the khadi fabric close to your face and blow gently - it should let some air through. 

Look for Khadi Mark Certification

Khadi Mark is a certification trademark managed by the Khadi and Village Industries Commission (KVIC). 

The khadi mark tells you that the fabric is 100% khadi - hand-spun and hand-woven. Different types of khadi fabric carry the Khadi mark on their label to assure the customer of their authenticity. 

Uses of Khadi Fabric in Modern Fashion

In recent years, designers and labels have moved beyond the traditional uses of khadi fabric.

• One of the most popular uses of khadi fabric is for workwear, as it looks put together and also stays comfortable throughout the day. A straight khadi fabric kurta or a khadi shirtdress works excellently in an Indian work context.
• For festive occasions, a khadi silk outfit in a deep tone with a printed or embroidered dupatta. The matte look of khadi sarees is also a comfortable alternative to shiny silks.
• For casual outings, khadi cotton co-ord or a kurta over jeans is a comfortable option. 
• Khadi packs well and can work in different climate situations. So, khadi fabric is a wonderful option for travel.
• A khadi jacket, waistcoat, or stole is one of the common uses of khadi fabric for layering, as it can add structure to even a simple outfit.

How to Care for Khadi Fabric 

When it comes to khadi fabric, good care, whether during washing or storage, is what ensures long-term wear. 

Washing Guidelines for Khadi Cotton and Silk

In the case of khadi cotton fabric, new khadi can release some dye. So, wash the garment separately in cold or lukewarm water. Stick to mild detergent and avoid harsh bleaches. 

Gentle hand washing is always the recommended method, but some garments may stand a gentle wash cycle. Confirm the same by checking the care label before washing. 

Using starch can give khadi fabric a crisper finish - but not everyone is a fan of it. 

PS: If the fabric has not been pre-washed, it is reasonable to accept some shrinkage after the first wash. 

Khadi silk is a much more delicate fabric and should never be scrubbed or wrung. Dry clean or hand wash the khadi silk garment in cold water with a mild detergent.

For khadi wool, dry-clean or hand-wash it with a wool-safe detergent. 

Drying and Ironing Best Practices

As direct exposure to harsh sunlight can fade the colors of your khadi fabric, always dry in shade. Don’t tumble dry or dry the khadi fabric in high heat.

Ironing

• Khadi cotton: Iron while it's still damp on a medium or high setting.
• Khadi silk: Iron in a low heat setting. Iron the garment on the reverse side with a cloth in between the iron and the khadi silk fabric.

Storage and Maintenance Guidelines

• Store the khadi fabric only after it is cleaned and fully dry. While storing, you can fold the soft khadi fabric outfits and hang khadi silk and structured outfits on padded hangers.
• For covers, use breathable and soft cotton covers. Avoid plastic storage covers.
• Take the outfits out of storage and regularly air them.
• Do not directly use mothballs while storing khadi fabric. Neem leaves or cedar are much gentler options for khadi. 

Frequently Asked Questions About Khadi Fabric 

What is the main difference between khadi and cotton?

When we look at what is khadi fabric? And what is cotton? The difference lies in the manufacturing process. In the case of Khadi, it is spun and woven completely by hand. Regular cotton fabric is usually spun and woven by machine.

Is khadi fabric good for summer?

The loose weave of the khadi fabric allows air to circulate. So, it is a good choice for both dry and humid heat of Indian summer.

Does khadi fabric shrink after washing?

Khadi fabric can shrink during the first wash if it was not pre-washed during garment making.

Why is khadi fabric more expensive than regular cotton?

Khadi fabric is hand-spun and hand-woven, so it takes more time and effort and skill to produce.

Can khadi fabric be made from silk or wool?

Khadi cotton is the fabric most of us are familiar with, but it is possible to make hand-spun and hand-woven khadi silk or khadi wool fabrics also.  

Conclusion 

For most of us a question like, "What is khadi fabric?" is not only about the texture or look of it. Its historical significance and practical suitability for the Indian climate already make it a valuable part of our everyday living.

Even for practical purposes, khadi is an ideal fabric, as it breathes in the Indian heat, softens with every wash, and stays comfortable throughout the day. Basic checks while buying and a little aftercare during wear, and you are sorted. 

So, if you are building a wardrobe around climate-friendly and comfortable clothing, khadi fabric definitely deserves your top consideration.